Redondo Beach

California is beach country. And with dozens of sandy stretches competing for your attention, it’s sometimes difficult to decide where to spend your day. Redondo Beach is one of those laid-back surf towns that had somehow escaped my attention.

Years ago, I’d been down to visit my friend’s place at Harbor Cove, a high-rise of Redondo Beach apartments right on the water. We noshed on avocado egg rolls at the local Cheesecake Factory, walked alongside the famous Wyland’s Whaling Wall, and sunbathed on the beach beside Yacht Club Way.

But I never really experienced what made Redondo Beach California tick — until my husband and I spent the weekend at a great Redondo Beach hotel — Portofino Hotel & Yacht Club.

Celebrating a long-overdue 15th anniversary, we discovered why Redondo Beach is one of the most underrated stretches of sand in Southern California.

The Portofino Redondo Beach is the only true waterfront hotel in the South Bay — and in Los Angeles for that matter — making it a great place to celebrate a romantic weekend or a fun family vacation.

Remodeled in 2007 to the tune of $11 million, the rooms of this beautiful resort overlook either the ocean or marina, so there really are no bad views.

The lobby’s floor-to-ceiling windows take advantage of the ocean views and passing sailboats. They offer gourmet coffee in the morning, and a nice cocktail hour starting around 4 p.m. beside a blazing fireplace. There’s free wi-fi as well, for those who bring their laptops.

Everything is in walking distance, whether you choose to dive into a greasy chili omelet and black coffee at the historic Polly’s on the Pier diner, let the kids splash and slide in the heated shallow sea water at Seaside Lagoon Water Park, or take in the sights of Redondo Beach Pier, where you can watch pelicans compete for fishermen’s daily catch, play old-fashioned games at the Fun Factory Arcade, or take a peek inside a bustling live fish market.

We especially enjoyed Quality Seafood, a huge complex along the International Boardwalk where you can buy every fresh fish or mollusk imaginable, from spiky live sea urchin to clamping crabs and lobster. There’s a cheap and delicious snack bar right on the premises where I enjoyed some of the best clam chowder of my life for about $3. Another bonus: You can choose any fresh fish from the market and have it grilled to order. Simply delicious Redondo Beach dining.

While you’re on the boardwalk, catch some live jams at the always rocking Redondo Beach bar, Naja’s Place, or hitch a romantic gondola ride from Gondola Amore.

The International Boardwalk is where you'll find most Redondo Beach rentals. We chose to grab a pedal boat at the S-44 Submarine dock (where you can also take a glass-bottom tour), and made our way to the ocean breakwater outside the Portofino Hotel to get a closer look at the adorable sea lions.

“We share a relationship. They are our neighbors,” said Janeane Glenn, a manager at the Portofino Hotel. “We actually have a partnership with the Marine Mammal Care Center where, for $35, our guests can buy the plush stuffed "Sir Barksalot" sea lion from their rooms, and we donate $10 toward the center. It’s a nice service that the guests seem to enjoy.”

The vocal sea lions enjoy serenading guests with their lyrical barks, bleats and roars — whether it’s early morning or late night. Ear plugs are provided to guests at the Portofino, but we found that once the sliding glass doors are shut, you can’t hear a thing. Another nice bonus — the room’s a/c provides a beautiful soothing white noise that keeps you sleeping like a baby through the night.

If you have time to spare and want to hit the town, the South Bay Galleria is a great shopping mall with such flagship stores as Macy’s and Nordstrom.

If you prefer more unique Redondo Beach shopping, head down Catalina Ave. toward Palos Verdes for a stroll in Riviera Village. There are no chains in this section of town — just a medley of entrepreneurs ranging from galleries, women’s boutiques, spas and independent restaurants.

We enjoyed a beautiful outdoor lunch at HT Grill, one of the most poular restaurants in Redondo Beach, where we noshed on its famous meatloaf, candy shrimp wraps and molten lava cake. As we walked off our lunch, we took a peek inside the charming and funky gift shop, Harmony Works.

Owner Michael Morales serves as an ambassador for Riviera Village, and for Redondo Beach.

“Riviera Village was founded in the 1930s to create a resort community for Hollywood’s elite,” he said. “It was called the ‘Hollywood Riviera’ at the time.”

Today, it’s a charming 3-block shopping district decorated with planters, potted flowers, banners and cable lights.

“We’re trying to make it more pedestrian friendly,” said Morales. “We tax ourselves, the city takes it and then gives it back to us for improvements. We’ve become a model for Redondo Beach and other cities.”

From Riviera Village, we shot down to the beach at Esplanade and Ave., where we enjoyed a nice view of the ocean, surfers and sailboats.

The cliffs here were recently replanted with native plants, and the El Segundo blue butterfly is now making a comeback in the spring and early summer.

 “Sometimes you can see dolphins jumping across the water against the view of the Palos Verdes peninsula,” said Morales. “The sunsets are amazing. People come park their cars, watch the sunset and go home. We’re blessed.”

IF YOU GO

• Gondola Amore. Redondo Beach Marina. Reservations mandatory. (310) 376-6977.
  
• South Bay Sailing, Redondo Beach Marina. Take a multiple-hour lesson teaching the basics and some nautical terminology. (310) 937-3180.
  
• SSV Looking Glass (310) 909-3179